Beach BBQs, Ocean Sunsets and a Trip to Stingray City

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Even with the plethora of medium and long-haul destinations available to today’s discerning travellers, there’s still something special about the Caribbean - that collection of islands cast like a string of pearls into the sea between the Americas.
The islands offer many contrasts: from the exclusive, super-rich haunts of St Barth’s and Mustique to those playboy tax-havens and cruise-ship magnets St Thomas and St Maarten; from the smoky, sultry, Latin American passion of Cuba and Puerto Rico to the yacht-friendly breezes of the Grenadines or the steel-drum, calypso exuberance of the cricketing West Indies.
Palm-fringed beaches? Ocean sunsets? Rum punch and Pina Coladas? Get in.
Jewel in the Caribbean's crown: Rory Bremner takes in the view of the beach at Peter Island
Jewel in the Caribbean's crown: Rory Bremner takes in the view of the beach at Peter Island

Our mission: to compare and contrast two holiday experiences, Antigua and Peter Island. One, a popular and much-loved destination with cricket-lovers and
yachtsmen alike; the other, an exclusive private island lying between the British Virgin Islands of Tortola and Virgin Gorda. Well, somebody had to do it.
Our only restriction was time: we had just seven nights in which to complete our enviable task. Hence my first piece of advice: take longer.
If you believe that getting there is half the fun, you’ll enjoy the trip to Peter Island, because it can seem like it has taken half your holiday to get there. Relax. It’s worth it. But you will have to fly via Antigua and St Maarten - and maybe drop off passengers at a third island en route. Welcome to the mad, dysfunctional world of local island-hopping airline LIAT (locals love to tell you that’s an acronym for Leave Island Any Time. You better believe it). Tip number two: plan your flights carefully.
Height of luxury: Curtain Bluff is perched on a promontory stretching into the sea with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean on the other
Height of luxury: Curtain Bluff is perched on a promontory stretching into the sea with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean on the other

Soak in the view: The guests Rory met at Curtain Bluff said they came back time and again
Soak in the view: The guests Rory met at Curtain Bluff said they came back time and again


So, Antigua  first. I love Antigua. It’s wilder, more laid-back and rougher round the edges than its bigger, brasher neighbours. In a word, it’s real. The people are fiercely proud of their island but they're relaxed, friendly and good-humoured too - think of the swagger and smile of cricketer Viv Richards in his pomp.
The island lacks the crime of Jamaica or St Kitts, the super-rich clientele of St Barth’s, or the commercialism, high-end tourist developments and sheer excess of Barbados. You’re less likely to run into Simon Cowell or Jodie Marsh here. (Although Eric Clapton has a place on the island along with - commendably - a rehab clinic.)
As you drive across Antigua, either along the coast or through the rainforest interior, you pass rough bungalows, shacks, graveyards (for humans and cars), schools and Baptist churches. While there are some resorts to the north and west, the more luxurious hotels are dotted along the south coast, including Curtain Bluff, perched on a promontory stretching into the sea with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean on the other.
Our schedule meant we merely overnighted there, and had time only to enjoy the good food and quick service at dinner, listen to the Atlantic breakers crashing onto the beach just yards from our balcony, and meet the owner Chelle Hulford. Everyone meets Chelle. She’s an institution, mingling with guests, hosting drinks and chatting with the clientele who love Curtain Bluff, rate it highly and come back time and again. That’s recommendation enough.
Natural haven: The Inn at English Harbour has a genuinely timeless, colonial charm
Natural haven: The Inn at English Harbour has a genuinely timeless, colonial charm


Lounging in the lap of luxury: The Inn's rooms have recently been refurbished
Lounging in the lap of luxury: The Inn's rooms have recently been refurbished


On our return from Peter Island, we spent two very pleasant nights at the Inn at English Harbour. The harbour is a natural haven for weary craft that are grateful to find peaceful shelter at the end of their travels. The same could be said of the hotel. But don’t be put off: like Curtain Bluff, The Inn has a devoted and regular clientele - though no children under ten (or, it seemed, under 60) - and it has a genuinely timeless, colonial charm.
The three distinctive white-washed, verandahed pavilions that house the hotel’s 24 rooms have recently been refurbished. Although none have baths, they are impressive, with polished wooden floors, period furniture and grand beds, some four-postered. (Book an upstairs room to avoid being disturbed by footsteps above. Nothing to do with a ghost: more the American couple who started pacing the room above ours at 6.30am and were still at it three hours later).
Food should be the hotel's next priority - it could be improved - but the poolside lunches and Thursday night’s beach-side barbecue, accompanied by a steel band, were delicious, and the hotel’s more elegant restaurant, higher up the hill, looked like a beautiful spot to dine. Alas, our flight was too late to let us sample that delight.
Simply fabulous: Rory explores the grounds of his luxury resort on Peter Island
Simply fabulous: Rory explores the grounds of his luxury resort on Peter Island



Historic: Nelson's Dockyard is the British Naval Base established in English Harbour in the 1770s
Historic: Nelson's Dockyard is the British Naval Base established in English Harbour in the 1770s

The presence of a dozen or more yachts peacefully at anchor in the harbour is one reason why there are no high-octane watersports, but we took a kayak, and later the hotel’s water taxi, and visited Nelson’s Dockyard, the British Naval Base established in English Harbour in the 1770s. Its grey stone Georgian buildings have been restored and converted for a variety of modern uses, including a hotel and an interesting museum.
There are two other must-do activities on the island. Firstly, hang out at Shirley Heights, high above English Harbour, on a Thursday or Sunday night. Everyone goes to party to the steel bands and enjoy food and drink from local stalls. Secondly (a new one, this), put on your bathers and go to Stingray City, a reef off the coast where you can swim and kneel in the shallow water while feeding friendly stingrays. Children will love it. We did too.




Wet and wild: Stingray City offers swimmers the chance to get up close to the local sea life
Wet and wild: Stingray City offers swimmers the chance to get up close to the local sea life

But now to the jewel in our Caribbean crown: Peter Island. A private island, owned by the founder of Amway, it’s home to a resort of 52 rooms, the more expensive of which overlook Dead Chest Island, where Blackbeard’s infamous 15 men were allegedly marooned. (‘Yo, ho, ho, and a bottle of rum….’)
Only one pirate supposedly made it over to Peter Island, but he died on the beach. Perhaps he saw the resort’s prices.
In addition to the rooms there are also three beautifully-appointed villas, the largest of which sleeps 12 and is stunningly-designed. Named Falcon's Nest, it boasts an infinity pool, waterfall, guest wings, dining room, double-height reception room - and a $12,000 (£7,300) a night price tag (plus 18 per cent service) to match.
The rest of the resort isn’t cheap either, but apart from the odd gripe on TripAdvisor (NO LOBSTER! shrieked one, with all the indignation of Michael Winner failing to find fresh Parmesan on Barbados), it is simply fabulous.
Of the 1800 lush acres of land, only 300 are developed, meaning it doesn’t feel crowded, and should you wish to walk the 2.5 miles up to the top of the estate to watch the sunset over Norman Island (reputedly the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island), you will pass just a handful of fellow-guests, on their way to the tennis court or the huge spa for their Ayurvedic treatments.
Peaceful retreat: Of the 1800 lush acres of land on Peter Island, only 300 are developed
Peaceful retreat: Of the 1800 lush acres of land on Peter Island, only 300 are developed

Taste for the good life: A chef grills seafood during a beach barbecue on Peter Island
Taste for the good life: A chef grills seafood during a beach barbecue on Peter Island

It says something for this exceptional place that you soon forget the effort it took to get here. The final stretch of the journey is a 20-minute ferry trip from Tortola and on the boat you’ll meet some of the 160-odd staff who work here - they live on Tortola and take the ferry each day.
Their friendliness and good humour pervade the resort, and some - like the remarkable Jean Kelly - have been here for decades. In Jean’s case, nearly three decades. She’s the life and soul of Peter Island, in her 80s and still - complete with spectacular hair-do (some of it her own) - ever-present at breakfast, where the must-have coconut-crusted French toast is named after her.

Everything is catered to American standards. And high standards at that.
We were on what’s called the Full American Food Plan, and if you’ve ever seen a Full American, you’ll be able to imagine what was on offer. At breakfast we took our pick from pancakes, granola and maple syrup, omelettes, fruit salad and eggs Benedict, while dinner one night involved a wine tasting and gourmet menu to accompany the wines (but still no lobster).
At night, sitting in the Tradewinds Restaurant, you see the lights of Tortola twinkling like a starcloth across the shimmering sea.

Treasure island: The white sand of Deadman's beach is lapped by the crystal clear Caribbean sea
Treasure island: The white sand of Deadman's beach is lapped by the crystal clear Caribbean sea

Stunningly-designed: Falcon's Nest features an infinity pool, waterfall, guest wings, dining room, double-height reception room - and a £7,300 a night price tag
Stunningly-designed: Falcon's Nest features an infinity pool, waterfall, guest wings, dining room, double-height reception room - and a £7,300 a night price tag


Some nights and most days you can eat at the beach bar, as can day visitors from yachts moored offshore (all beaches in the Virgin Islands are public). Here, and at Tradewinds, Captain will mix you the best Raspberry Mojito or BBC (Baileys, Banana, Coconut) you’ve ever tasted.
By day you may want to lounge on the beach or by the pool - we took a free kayak and Hobie Cat one day - but if the wind is up (Tradewinds is appropriately named on these days, the breeze being quite strong), you should book yourself (early) into one of the six huts on White Bay beach and spend the day on the sheltered side of the island, swimming and snorkelling.
Wherever you go - spa, beach, restaurant - you’re assured a memorable experience. On the ferry back, you’ll share the journey with the homeward shift of hotel staff, many of whom you’ll know by now. 'You’ll be back', they say, laughing. And they’re right. At least I damn well hope they’re right. I’ll start saving now.

Travel facts

ITC Luxury Travel (01244 355 527; www.itcluxurytravel.co.uk) has prices from £3,299 per person based on two adults sharing including return economy class flights from London Gatwick to Antigua with British Airways, inter-island flights to Tortola (Beef Island) with Liat and all transfers. The package includes:
  • 4 nights room-only in an Ocean View Room at Peter Island 
  • 3 Nights all-inclusive in a Deluxe Room at Curtain Bluff
  • 3 nights half-board in a beach Cabana at The Inn at English Harbour

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